Skip the bulk units with limited range and consider a ductless mini-split for tighter spaces or renovations. They’re compact, unobtrusive, and easier to install without tearing into walls–especially useful in older properties common across the city’s inner neighbourhoods. Single-zone models handle a bedroom or office well, but multi-zone versions let you tailor temperatures room by room. Some families prefer this for second-storey bedrooms, which always seem too warm, even in early spring.
If your place already has ductwork in decent shape, a central setup with inverter tech might make more sense. These systems modulate instead of switching off and on, so they run quieter and more steadily. That can matter in places near Crowchild Trail or 17th Ave, where outdoor noise is already a thing. Plus, there’s a bit of energy savings baked in with that smoother operation–not dramatic, maybe 10–15% annually, but noticeable on winter bills when running the reverse cycle.
Watch the numbers: SEER2 above 16 and HSPF2 no lower than 9. You’ll see plenty of mid-range brands advertising higher figures, but they rarely hit those ratings in real-world conditions–especially during shoulder seasons. Some installers push premium labels with bells and whistles that sound great on paper, but unless you’re tech-savvy or really into remote controls, they might just complicate things. Simple often works better.
One more thing–installation matters more than brand. A mid-tier model set up properly will outperform a top-shelf unit thrown in carelessly. We’ve had a few clients call us months after a rushed job elsewhere, wondering why their bills spiked. Turned out the refrigerant line was undersized. Little details like that catch up to you fast in our climate, where temperature swings can be brutal overnight.
Choosing Between Ducted and Ductless Systems for Older Homes
If your house was built before the 1970s and hasn’t seen major renovations, ductless is probably the better place to start. Many older properties weren’t designed with large-scale ductwork in mind, and trying to retrofit a full ventilation system can get messy–both structurally and financially. In some cases, walls have to come down. It’s not always worth it.
That said, if the house already has existing ducts–say, from a previous furnace setup that’s still in decent shape–then it might make sense to reuse what’s there. You’d avoid the hassle of installing individual units in every zone, and the result is usually a cleaner visual layout. No wall-mounted units to work around. But you’ll want a full inspection first. Leaks, poor insulation, and sizing issues can sabotage the whole setup. We’ve seen systems where the ducts were so inefficient that adding a centralized unit barely made a difference upstairs.
Now, for those leaning toward the duct-free route–yes, the upfront cost per head can add up if you’re covering multiple rooms. But the control it gives? Room-by-room temperature adjustments can be a game changer if you’re dealing with uneven sun exposure or a basement that never quite gets warm. Plus, the install is fast. One technician can usually finish a setup in less than a day, sometimes half that if access is good.
Honestly, some homeowners mix both. A ducted system on the main level, then split units in trickier spots like attic bedrooms or rear additions. Not the cheapest solution, but it works. Especially when comfort wins out over symmetry.
If I had to choose? For a home with no ducts and no plans for gutting walls–ductless, every time. It’s just easier. But for anything with usable infrastructure already in place, it’s worth at least pricing both paths. Just don’t forget to factor in the long-term energy savings. Those can tilt the scales more than you’d expect.
Seasonal Performance of Heat Pumps in Calgary’s Variable Climate
Choose a variable-speed model. These systems adjust output based on demand, which helps manage shoulder-season days that swing from frost to sun in a matter of hours. Units that rely on fixed output often short-cycle during milder stretches, leading to uneven temperature and premature wear.
Don’t expect one-size-fits-all performance. During mid-winter, especially when temperatures fall below -20°C (which isn’t rare around here), supplementary electric elements or a dual-fuel setup with a gas furnace can be necessary. Some models advertise operation down to -25°C or colder, but in real-world tests – or even just chatting with neighbours – their output often drops off well before that. That drop-off forces backup heat to pick up the slack more often than brochures imply.
In shoulder seasons – think March or late October – you’ll likely notice better comfort levels, particularly if your system has a good defrost cycle. Units without intelligent defrost logic can kick into auxiliary mode too frequently, which bumps up energy use and messes with humidity levels indoors. Personally, I’ve found inverter-driven units handle this much more gracefully. They’re quieter too, which, come spring mornings, is a small but welcome thing.
Location matters more than people think. Systems placed on the north or east side of a home tend to accumulate more frost. That affects runtime and efficiency, especially if there’s minimal sun exposure to help with thawing. A slightly more exposed installation site with some southern exposure can reduce defrost cycles – just something I’ve noticed after two installs at different homes.
And one more thing – be realistic about summer. High-performance models do fine with our dry, warm season, but sizing still matters. Oversized systems cycle too quickly, never quite removing enough indoor moisture. That can leave your place feeling sticky, despite a low thermostat reading.
So yes, seasonal swings here challenge most equipment. But choosing variable-speed technology, planning for backup on frigid days, and thinking about placement – those three factors make all the difference.
Installation Costs and Available Rebates for Heat Exchange Systems in Calgary
If you’re budgeting for a new ducted or ductless climate unit, expect to pay anywhere from $8,000 to $18,000, depending on the size of your home, electrical panel capacity, and whether it’s a retrofit or new build. For most single-family homes, the typical range falls closer to $10,000–$14,000. That includes the unit itself, labour, and basic electrical work–but not upgrades like insulation or duct redesign, which can nudge the total higher.
Now, about incentives. The federal Greener Homes initiative still offers up to $5,000 back, but there’s a catch–it’s not automatic. You need a pre- and post-installation energy audit from a certified advisor. It’s a bit of a hassle, to be honest. You might wait weeks just for the audit. But the rebate is real, and it can shrink your net cost significantly.
Local Programs
The municipal rebate scene is… inconsistent. As of early 2025, the Clean Energy Improvement Program (CEIP) in Alberta offers financing, not direct rebates. It lets you spread payments over time via your property tax bill. Not exactly a discount, but it helps with cash flow.
- Greener Homes Grant: Up to $5,000 rebate (plus $600 for audits)
- CEIP Financing: Low-interest repayment through property taxes
- Canada Greener Homes Loan: Interest-free loan up to $40,000
Is It Worth It?
If your current cooling or heating setup is over 15 years old, probably yes. Especially with the federal rebate covering a good chunk of the cost. But installation isn’t quick or easy–scheduling can stretch 6–8 weeks out during busy seasons, and if your panel isn’t 200 amp, you’ll likely need an upgrade (another $2,000–$3,000).
One neighbour on our street waited three months just for a spot in the queue. And that’s with a reputable installer. If you’re thinking about going this route, get quotes early. And ask each company to break out the cost of electrical work separately–that’s where surprises tend to pop up.
Contact “Calgary Air Heating and Cooling Ltd” For More Information:
Address
95 Beaconsfield Rise NW, Calgary, AB T3K 1X3
Phone
+1 403 720-0003
Hours of operation
Open 24 hours 7 days a week